Compulsive Consumption
Posted on July 21, 2014 Leave a Comment
Buildings and places have memory. It’s not possible for worldly events to escape documentation by the earth, the walls of a building, the decorations, furniture and surrounding nature. One of most basic laws of science is the Law of the Conservation of Energy. Energy cannot be created or destroyed; it can only be changed from one form to another. So, it makes sense that the “energy” of a place and the individuals that inhabited the place never really leave. Literally, walls have memory. It was understood in our family that Grandma and Grandpa’s house was haunted. You didn’t have to listen to Grandma’s stories of skeletons hanging in the closets or from the rafters in the attic. You knew the house was haunted by that eery feeling you got sitting in the living room in front of one of the black marble fireplaces or from the push down the back stairs from some invisible but forceful entity. Indeed Grandma’s house was inhabited by several ghosts – trapped individuals that were forever tethered to the house with the magical address 345 Allen Street. I am one of those tethered souls. The house, and it’s story, has haunted me my entire life.
#ThursdayTrends – it’s all about transparency – #TBT
Posted on July 17, 2014 Leave a Comment
My mom recently sent me the pic above. I’m the chubby one, second from the left in the tube socks. This photo got me thinking about how fashion cycles work. What was popular in 1973 is exactly what’s happening in fashion today. Look at the tube socks – hipsters in Williamsburg are doing this look already this summer. Then, there’s the kid on the other side of the camp counselor in the mesh tank top. That’s a look we’re already seeing a bit of on the streets. But, it will be everywhere next summer, as mesh and transparent tops were all over the spring 2015 menswear runways last month.
Angel dust and baby’s breath or how to make #couture modern.
Posted on July 11, 2014 Leave a Comment
It’s the seemingly eternal question in the fashion world, how to make couture modern. The twice a year fashion event that’s couture brings together the fashion press, celebrities and anonymous wealthy women all hungering for the next exquisite piece of clothing that no one else on earth will possess. The world of couture seems at odds with today’s digitally democratized, ever reproduced and knocked off marketplace of mediocrity. Everyone and everything looks the same – not true in the couture. If you can afford couture prices, you can have a wardrobe like no one else on planet earth. The problem is that 1% of the population is so small, and not all of them even buy couture. So, the client base that supports couture doesn’t sustain the business creating these delicious petits fours.
That’s wear ready to wear, jewelry, eyewear, handbags and licenses, licenses, licenses come in. The business of fashion keeps finding new ways to slap a designer’s name on items to enhance the bottom line and appease the global hedge funds and private equity firms that finance fashion. So, that’s why we continually ask the question, Is couture relevant in the modern world?
As a fashion devotee, I’d say yes, couture is relevant. That’s to say it’s as relevant as art, music, sports or even fine dining. It’s an expression of creativity that stands on it’s own merit. There’s no reason to defend the existince of a great painting. Most likely the painter didn’t make a huge some of money by producing the work and the coffers of the investment bankers only began to fill after the death of the artisit – Jeff Koons is the exception here. But, still, you get the concept – couture like art exists for the enjoyment of anyone that is lucky enough to experience it. Case closed. Couture is relevant. Let’s move on.
Of the many couture shows that happened this week in Paris, I have three favorites – Christian Dior, Versace and Valentino.
Dior
See the whole collection here.
Versace
See the whole collection here.
Valentino
See the whole collection here.
Givenchy
That brings us to the title of this post. What’s up with the angel dust and baby’s breath and what do they have to do with couture? To answer that question we have to go back to the Givenchy Spring 2015 menswear show. Riccardo Tisci showed his take on menswear in Paris just two days before the couture shows were set to open. So a lot of the couture editors were in town already. No mistake. Tisci’s man is more like a couture client anyway. But, his use of transparent diaphonous fabrics embellished with baby’s breath is what’s really exciting. This is menswear, remember. It’s as if Tisci slipped everyone a hit of Angel Dust as they entered the show and we were all transported to a distant fairy land where fashion’s gender codes don’t apply. Don’t be surprised to find yourself coveting one of Givenchy’s baby’s breath tank tops or polo shirts come spring 2015. Who cares if you’re a boy or a girl? Riccardo Tisci has seen the future of couture and it’s a man’s world. You’ve been warned. We’ve all been dusted with Givenchy fairy dust.
See the whole collection here.
“If I can’t express myself, I’ll die.” – YSL
Posted on July 8, 2014 Leave a Comment
In honor of couture week, I thought a review of the Yves Saint Laurent biopic was in order. This year marks 8 years since the designer’s death and there are 2 films about him circulating. The first, “Yves Saint Laurent” was released earlier this year in Europe and just arrived in the US last week. The second, “Saint Laurent” is scheduled for release in October.
Yves became the design director for the house of Dior upon Christian Dior’s untimely death in 1957. He had moderate success at the house, but was fired after a nervous breakdown during his mandatory military service. Pierre Berge, Yves’ lover, successfully sued Dior and used the award money to finance Yves’ own coutute house.
Homo Nest Raided, Queen Bees Are Stinging Mad – the fight is not over!
Posted on June 29, 2014 Leave a Comment
Reprinted from “The New York Daily News,” July 6, 1969
By JERRY LISKER
She sat there with her legs crossed, the lashes of her mascara-coated eyes
beating like the wings of a hummingbird. She was angry. She was so upset she
hadn’t bothered to shave.
A day old stubble was beginning to push through the pancake makeup. She was a
he. A queen of Christopher Street.
Dude, lose that noose around your neck –
Posted on June 26, 2014 Leave a Comment
The Spring 2015 London and Milan menswear shows have wrapped up. Now the fashion pack moves on to Paris for more men’s shows and then, of course, it’s Couture! Several trends are emerging including, texture, transparency, shine, mesh, bright colors and pop art prints. But, the most noticeable trend is the absence of neckties. Most designers are foregoing them including Ermengildo Zegna, Gucci, Versace, etc. The photo above is from the Burberry show and it captures the mood that young men are longing for in business clothing across the globe – relaxed, casual, comfortable tailoring.
#PrettyHurts but mile 7 is bliss.
Posted on June 20, 2014 Leave a Comment
I never wake up, jump out of bed and shout, “let’s go running!” That just never happens. The first 3 miles are agony. I always ask myself, ” Why do you do this? I hate this!” But, something magical happens at around mile 5. My muscles are warmed up, my heart is pumping. My breathing is deeper. Suddenly my body feels alive. Around mile 6 the endorphins have kicked in and I’m feeling great. This is why I run. The feeling of awesomeness that washes over my body when running is indescribable. Read More
Rewards
Posted on June 20, 2014 Leave a Comment
Achieving your goals is not easy. But, I’ve found a great trick that makes it a little easier to realize your dreams. Set realistic weekly goals and reward yourself once you’ve met them. For instance, in my marathon training, Saturday is my long run day. Last week my goal was to run 15 miles. That’s two miles longer than a half marathon and right on track for me to be running marathon distance by mid August. Read More
The finish line is just the beginning.
Posted on June 17, 2014 Leave a Comment
Culver McCall 